The Dibru-Saikhowa National Park was awarded national park status in 1999. Since then its population of river dolphins has grown and the park guides haven’t lost any elephants to poachers recently. In fact, their job is as much about protecting tourists from rampaging animals as it is protecting animals from greedy poachers. One guide told us they only ever fire warning shots, and they do this so infrequently they only change their bullet cartridge once a year, due to rust. The biggest problem is illegal logging.
Betel nut, or paan as it’s known in Hindi, is the stuff that turns your teeth and gums bright red, and is responsible for the splashes of what looks like blood on the pavements across India and Southeast Asia.
Arrival at a colonial-era chang (raised) bungalow in Dibrugarh, Assam, India’s tea capital.